What will gutsy Raf Simons, the current Jil Sander s designer bring us this fall show Will he still insist to be a modernist, or like every other designers yield to the recession Well, this show tells us by itself.
Total clarity of vision and superb quality, two elements that magnetized Jil Sander addicts for 20 years, now back in full force at the beginning of Raf Simons Fall show, demonstrating to all that the power of a spare double-faced cashmere coat over a simple turtleneck dress or a camel coat with narrow navy pants is undiminished. Simons devoted himself to homage to the founder of the brand, revisiting Jil Sander s signature minimalism and updating it in strict and simple silhouettes in the most luxurious of fabrics: cashgora, chinchilla, sable cashmere and double-face cashmere, in plain or something contrasting colors.
In his second section, the lights dimmed and punctuated, by colored flashing. This collection is inspired by the French ceramicist, Pol Chambost, who died in 1983. The shapes are various with sculptural curves; fold-back flanges; and spiraling, molded volumes. And the color includes green, orange, and yellow-flashing inside a funnel neck, a dipping hemline, or a peeled-away back view.
What was remarkable is how Simons and his teams executed these organic shapes. There was never a feeling of too much , or a proportion thrown off. Indeed, the marriage between the shapes and the choice of fabrics was about as intelligent as it gets.
A Modernist s Defiance: Jil Sander Fall/winter 09 Show
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