The IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde is a Work of Beauty

High complications are like diamonds; every single one is precious, but not all of the same quality and refinement. It's only upon scrutiny that the truly perfect ones are found. Such scrutiny comes not only from the public, but also from the maker itself.

I've always admired and appreciated the IWC Portuguese for its handsome looks and almost noble being, if a watch can be described as such. IWC has many different lines, from the angular and architecturally-inspired Da Vinci to the sporty, energetic Aquatimer, but the Portuguese has a different air about it, a presence one imagines to be stately. That's why whenever the watch label issues a new timepiece in the particular line, my entire being perks up in attention.

This year, at SIHH in January 2010, the watchmaker announced two pieces of extreme interest to this writer: the Portuguese Grande Complication and the Portuguese Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde. Both are elegant works of art, but I found myself more attracted to the latter (shown above) rather than the former.

Make no mistake, the Portuguese Grande Complication is a masterpiece. It's been 20 years since IWC first presented the Grande Complication, and the first time it's placed such a complicated movement in the Portuguese line. The engineering marvel has dazzled me, but I found the Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde to carry a closer semblance to its other cousins, perfected now with a retrograde date display and careful refinements on its aesthetics to enhance the tourbillon display.

The retrograde date display sweeps on the lower left of the dial, which is in a deep ruthenium black with a platinum case or silver dial on the red gold case. It leaps back to the first of the month automatically, or when advanced by the fast date adjustor.

Over the years since the watch first appeared, the tourbillon has moved around the dial, but appears to have found the perfect spot at the top of the dial, with a deep black aperture that holds the lightweight minute flying tourbillon, which also doubles as a seconds counter. A mirror-finished ring which holds the tourbillon reflects parts of the escapement as it spins, allowing a full view of the delicate device.

The calibre 51900, a self-winding movement, has a seven-day power reserve, indicated on the right of the dial. The orchestra of the sweeping hands, as they go round and round the watch dial, is a symphony which begs to be admired.

The IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde is a Work of Beauty